Remembrances of menus past—When Bocuse came to lunch

From the chapter: Menus—through the past

Paul Bocuse flanked by Chefs Roy Yamaguchi and Gordon Hopkins, the author (right-front) and local Hawaii wine professionals attending this memorable lunch.

April 1994

Paul Bocuse dropped by our original Roy's after literally wading to shore following a Hawaiian canoe ride manned by six muscular wahine (women) from the local, trophy winning canoe club; landing just outside our restaurant windows, which overlooks Maunalua Bay. Of course, this was all carefully orchestrated for press and everyone’s amusement (Chef Bocuse rolling up on a foamy beach with hiked-up pants is a sight never to be forgotten)—including this menu, which makes an interesting study of progression through subtle variations of classic French champagne:

Fresh Island Mahi Mahi with Crispy Ogo and Sea Vegetables in Sesame Uni Sauce
G.H. Mumm, Cordon Rouge Brut

Kiawe Smoked Lobster Sausage with White Beans and Nalo Farm Greens in Cordon Rouge Caviar Vinaigrette
G.H. Mumm, Cordon Rouge Brut Millésimé 1988

Napa Valley Rabbit with Puna Chèvre Hash and Mexican Mint Marigold Mustard Sauce
G.H. Mumm, René Lalou Brut 1985

According to John Heckathorn, the longtime editor of Honolulu magazine whom we sat next to Bocuse, the best part of the first course was not the flaky white, quintessentially Hawaiian fish (mahi mahi) itself, but the tiny, lightly batter crisped mounds of ogo (green Hawaiian seaweed) on the plate. I liked the ogo touch because it gave us the mild brininess, airy lightness and textural relief as a counterpoint to the silky beurre blanc, reflecting the faint minerality of crisp acidity yet finely textured contrasts in the classic nonvintage champagne. Toasted sesame seeds mingled with the wine’s yeastiness, and the uni (sea urchin) gave the sparkler’s acidity something extra to bite into.

View of Maunalua Bay from the original Roy’s Restaurant. Robbyn Shim.

Mumm’s vintaged bottlings are fuller and yeastier, but still fluid and finesseful. Kiawe (Hawaiian mesquite) wood smokiness in the lobster sausage and specks of pancetta amidst the al dente white beans splashed with the champagne vinaigrette and three colors of caviar (mackerel, flying fish and sturgeon) effectively raised the intensity level without running roughshod over the wine’s length and grace.

But don’t take my word for it. Heckathorn went on to write (in his subsequent Honolulu piece), on Yamaguchi’s rabbit:

During the last course I finally got Bocuse to comment on the food (up until then he was just cleaning his plates). A dish more typical of France than Hawaii, the rabbit was presented as a tenderloin sliced atop a hash made of Hawaiian goat cheese and mashed potatoes, the rack, its tiny bones still intact, served on the side… the bones gave you pause because you were reminded you were eating a real animal. But this was the best rabbit I’ve ever had, full-flavored yet mild.

My concern, of course, was complimenting the more intensely yeasted, caramelized, meatier texture of the luxury René Lalou cuvée. The use of mildly sharp Hawaiian chèvre gave a natural touch of similarity to the champagne’s acidity, but the brothy rabbit stock laced with the flowery, faintly licorice/tarragon-like quality of Mexican mint marigold was what really did the trick for me: Giving a contrasting definition to both the well matured champagne and the meager white meatiness of the poor lil' rabbit who sacrificed his body to feed Paul Bocuse lunch.