Remembrances of menus past⏤"You say potatoes, I say poi" (Hawaiian Regional Cuisine in New York with Joshua Wesson)
From the chapter: Menus⏤Through the past
February 1999
When Yamaguchi and a posse of Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs plus California and Oregon winemakers invaded New York City for the opening of Roy’s New York in 1999, I invited Joshua Wesson—founder of Best Cellars and one of two minds behind the book Red Wine with Fish—to share some of his thoughts on the printed menu and the event itself, which he did with his own usual aplomb.
Joining Roy Yamaguchi, Roy's New York Executive Chef Troy Guard and Roy’s Corporate Pastry Chef Noah French were guest Hawaii chefs D.K. Kodama, Philippe Padovani and Alan Wong. The guest vintners included Jim Clendenen (Au Bon Climat), Cecil and Christine De Loach (De Loach Winery), Lynn Penner-Ash (Rex Hill Vineyards), Ken Wright (Ken Wright Cellars), Mary Lannin and Dave Ready (Murphy-Goode Winery), and Joy Sterling and Forrest Tancer (Iron Horse Vineyards).
Despite the bevy of friends flying in from across the country to celebrate our opening in New York, it ended up being one of the worst nights of my life: During the course of the three-week opening team training I came down with a sore throat. By opening night, my voice had completely vanished. Luckily, I had also invited Hawaii's Chuck Furuya MS to serve as "guest sommelier." Furuya was able to stand in for me, performing my regular duties of welcoming the entire room (filled with New York media, culinary and wine industry cognoscenti) and introducing our formidable team of guest chefs and vintners.
The menu, along with Mr. Wesson's scribblings:
D.K. Kodama's Panko Crusted 'Ahi Tuna with Wasabi Soy Butter, and
Asian Rock Shrimp Cake with Ginger Lime Chili Butter and Cilantro Pesto
Iron Horse, Sonoma/Green Valley Late Disgorged Brut 1992
JW: "D.K.'s Big Island Hearts of Palm Salad with Pan Seared Savory shrimp and tuna hotted up with chili and wasabi met their match in the fire extinguishing fizz of Iron Horse’s deeply flavored, yet utterly refreshing, style of sparkling wine."
Philippe Padovani's Day boat Scallops, Prosciutto and Mango
Rex Hill, Willamette Valley Reserve Pinot Gris 1997
JW: "Rex’s gris gris cooks up Cal-Chard-like richness with mouthwatering Oregon acidity, well suited to the twin-forked taste of Philippe’s salty-sweet surf n’ turf style salad."
Alan Wong’s Steamed Hawaiian Onaga in Truffled Nage
Murphy-Goode, The Deuce Barrel Fermented Fumé 1997
JW: "MG’s pristine but earthy, toasty barrel fermented SB only enriches Alan’s truffled tropical swimmer."
Troy Guard and Roy Yamaguchi’s
Thai Herb Grilled Lobster with Black Rice Risotto and Spicy Shrimp Sauce
Ken Wright, “Celilo Vineyard” Washington State Chardonnay 1997
JW: "You gotta love the Roy & Troy team’s softly spicy shellfish dish with Ken Wright’s unusually crisp and flinty cool-climate coastal Washington Chardonnay."
Troy Guard and Roy Yamaguchi’s
Mongolian Rack of Lamb with Minted Fruit Compote and Euro-Asian Style Curry
Il Podere dell’ Olivos, Ragazzo Lenoso Riserva (Barbera/Nebbiolo) 1994
JW: "Who needs mint jelly when the Boyz under the Hood offer their own minty compote as a condiment of choice? Add that to Big Jim Clendenen’s California twist to two big fruit Piemonte grapes, and you’ve got a match that boldly goes where no wine and food has gone before!"
Noah French’s Hawaiian Medley of
Coconut Crème Brûlée, Yuzu Lemon Tart and Chocolate Macadamia Toffee Cake
De Loach Vineyards, Late Harvest Gewürztraminer 1997
JW: "This hand harvested sumo-Gewürz takes on a trio of sweets in a celebrity match for the heavyweight title of dessert champ. Are you ready to RUMBLE?"