Remembrances of menus past—For the legendary Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards
From the chapter: Menus—through the past
November 1993 and March 1998
Ridge is so iconic, we were cognizant of the fact that when many wine aficionados think of the brand they don't think of the wines in terms of food contexts. But we always did, and still do.
When California Zinfandels, for instance, suddenly turned into unwieldy behemoths in the early to mid-1990s, we loved that fact that we could still count on Ridge's bottlings to retain a sense of restraint and level of acidity giving the varietal the food versatility we always loved. There was nothing more important to us in Hawaii where many dishes are Asian or fusion influenced, which (unlike cuisines of European origin) employ sensations that touch all parts of the palate.
Ridge, of course, was the California pioneer of vineyard-designated wines. Meaning, wines that were never meant to prioritize the singularity of varietal intensity (as much as the evolving press wanted it that way); but rather, a genuine sense of place, be it a specific vineyard or appellation. How refreshing⏤even if most of the brand’s own followers still don’t get it (for Pete’s sake, to remind people they weren’t producing “varietal” wine Ridge stopped putting “Zinfandel” on their labels long ago).
For Mr. Draper's visit in 1993, as it were, we deliberately gave our menu a Mediterranean slant⏤shining a light on the ofttimes cuisine du soleil nature of Island cooking⏤while incorporating Asian influences through restrained use of spices and vinegars. The menu and wines for the 1993 event:
Liquid refreshment: Ridge, Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 1990
Cassoulet of Garlic Sausage with Eggplant Stew, Tuscan Beans and Crispy Puna Chèvre
Ridge, Evangelo Mataró 1991
Pan Roasted Salmon Salad with Gizzard Confit, Duck Liver and Sweetbreads in Zinfandel Vinaigrette
Ridge, Geyserville Zinfandel 1991
Ravioli of Roasted Lamb with Three Aged Cheeses and Grilled Winter Vegetables in Cabernet Nage
Ridge, Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 1991
Ridge, Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon 1989
Pears Poached in Essence of Autumn Spice and Zinfandel
Ridge, Zinfandel Essence 1991
Five years later, we invited Draper back, in early 1998, in order to explore two more facets of the classic Ridge paradigm:
1. The sensory transformation of Ridge Zinfandels into more savory (i.e., umami related) wines when aged for as long as 10, 20 or even 30 years in the bottle.
2. The increasing ease of Ridge's older vintages of Zinfandel in the context of Asian influenced dishes.
Draper's 1998 appearance was a limited seating event⏤more of a long and ambitious tasting disguised as "lunch"⏤involving 33 bottles of Ridge Zinfandel in vintages going as far back as 1964.
Of course, this lunch was as challenging as if was edifying. I still ponder its ramifications, more than twenty years later, and my perspectives have evolved over time. If it could be summarized, it would be in just three words: Wow, just wow.
Seriously, though, you can say that well crafted Zinfandels age well, but not in the same ways that impress you when Zinfandels are young. I had to grow old to fully understand that. That is, I had to learn to adjust both sensory and cognitive (i.e., conscious or intellectual) expectations when tasting wines through various stages of maturation. Zinfandels, perhaps more than most of the interesting wines of the world, demand that kind of mental effort. Otherwise their positive attributes, particularly in respect to culinary and terroir related valuations, fly right by you.
1998 Vertical and Horizontal Zinfandel Lunch
Flight 1
Ahi Tuna Vegetable Tortellini in Natural Beef Broth
1964 Monte Bello
1968 Geyserville
1969 Monte Bello
1970 Occidental Late Harvest (Sonoma)
1973 Geyserville (Late Picked)
1973 Monte Bello
Flight 2
Napa Cabbage Winter Rolls with Rice Noodles, Shiitakes & Pork in Mild Wasabi Mustard Sauce
1974 Geyserville (Trentadue Ranch)
1974 Monte Bello
1976 Pecchetti (Late Picked/Monte Bello)
1976 Esola Ranch (Late Harvest/Amador)
1977 Geyserville (Late Harvest/Trentadue Ranch)
1978 Monte Bello (Jimsomare & Pecchetti Vineyards)
1979 York Creek (Spring Mt.)
Flight 3
Waimanalo Mesclun Salad with Crispy Gizzard Croutons in Warm Balsamic Vinaigrette
1980 Geyserville (Trentadue Ranch)
1981 Geyserville (Trentadue & Angeli Ranches)
1982 Geyserville
1983 Geyserville
1984 Geyserville
1985 Geyserville
Flight 4
Wood Roasted Salmon in "Drunken" Saké Sauce
1986 Park/Muscatine Vineyard (Howell Mt.)
1987 Lytton Springs
1988 Beatty Vineyard (Howell Mt.)
1988 Geyserville
1989 Geyserville
1990 Geyserville
1990 Lytton Springs
Flight 5
Rosemary Spring Pork Loin Skewers in Natural and Green Herb Sauces
1991 Geyserville (50% Zinfandel/Carignane & Petite Sirah)
1991 Lytton Springs
1992 Lytton Springs
1994 Geyserville
1994 Lytton Springs
1995 Geyserville
1995 Pagani Ranch (Late Picked/Sonoma Valley)
"Wow, just wow," indeed. This was a treat, Randy. Thanks for sharing!