Remembrances of menus past—A multi-winemaker Merlot fest (guest chef Tamara Murphy)
From the chapter: Menus—through the past
July 1996
Although we’ve always covered the world’s waterfront of alternative style wines, there was also a ton of work done with the “standard” varietals, providing they had the “right stuff” according to our cuisine-centric sensory standards.
I remember well in the '90s that it always seemed daft to much of the industry that a restaurant should care more about how wines taste with food than wines that are popular or top selling. Maybe that made us idiots, but I was convinced that this was exactly why, by 1996, we were doing better than competitors; able to open more than a dozen restaurants, all packed to the gills. Wines that actually make our particular dishes taste better were a key part of that business formula.
By 1996 Merlot was a very popular varietal indeed; to the point where, despite the grape’s nobility, there was a lot of shameful schlock out in the market. I used to think of that song about "Roxanne"... you don't have to wear that dress tonight. But as always, there were also a select few genuinely great, consciously grown Merlots (that is, sourced from sites chosen for soils giving the highest percentage chance of yielding the rounded yet layered and multifaceted qualities of the varietal) available to us as well.
Therefore, for this multi-Island event, I invited the winemakers⏤in retrospect, now more like legends—who I felt could show our guests what "real Merlot” tastes like: Beginning with the late, great, memorably cerebral David Lake MW (Columbia Winery), joined by Tom Rinaldi (Duckhorn Vineyards), Marco Cappelli (Swanson), and Rob Sinskey (Robert Sinskey Vineyards).
I was also a fan of Seattle’s James Beard Award winning Tamara Murphy (at that time, presiding at Campagne), who I felt had an instinctive feel for sensuously textured dishes perfect for the varietal. The menu prepared in collaboration with Chef Yamaguchi:
Crispy Nori Crusted Salmon with Enoki and Truffle Oil Vinaigrette
Swanson, Napa Valley Merlot 1994
Lamb Tartare with Scotch Bonnets, Mushroom Salad and Herb Chips
Duckhorn, Napa Valley Merlot 1994
Seared ‘Ahi Tuna with a Smoked Pepper and Citrus Glaze
Columbia, Milestone Red Willow Vineyard Merlot 1993
Boneless Quail Stuffed with Fig and Prosciutto on Almond Couscous
Robert Sinskey, RSV Reserve Los Carneros Merlot 1992
Black Chocolate Mousse Cake with Espresso Sauce and a Candied Twist
The Yamaguchi/Murphy menu for Merlots reflects the full range of food matches—incorporating hot (habanero in the lamb tartare) or sweet (fig in the quail), salty and umami (nori, truffle, and enoki mushrooms in the salmon), and even bitter and sour (smoked pepper and citrus in the tuna) sensations—possible for a varietal that portrays an outwardly soft, sumptuous fruitiness, even while brimming with equal doses of tannin, oak, and alcoholic strength, as the generously scaled Merlots poured in this particular event certainly did.