Appreciating saké, and its food matches, like the wine that it is
From the chapter: Cooking up storms
FIVE SAKÉ LESSONS
In the late nineties it was Grif Frost, the founding partner of SakéOne in Oregon (now retired, and living the life in Hilo, Hawaii), who first informed me that everything I knew previously about saké was wrong. I spent a lot of time figuring out what he was saying.
First thing I learned from Frost: Only poorly made, cheap sakés are served warm; and the finest sakés (called hiyazake or reishu) are best served slightly chilled, since the pure, delicate nuances of chilled sakés are destroyed by heat. You would no more heat up a bottle of high quality saké than you would an ultra-premium Chardonnay
Second thing I learned from Frost: Saké may be made from rice, but it is much closer to fine wine than, say, beer, at least in terms of body, flavor, intensity and complexity. This was driven home the first time I stood over an opened, fermenting vat of ultra-premium saké, breathing in the intoxicating aromas, which for all the world resembles a gigantic bouquet of fresh, sweet honeydew, pineapple, passion fruit, jasmine, sweetened cream, and entire pods of vanilla bean. All that, very real, and made purely from rice!
Which brings us to the question: Is saké a "wine?" Well, yes and no. Yes, from the perspective that, like wine, its alcohol level is the result of the conversion of sugars to alcohol by the action of yeast. Wine, of course, is fermented from grape sugars; whereas saké is fermented from finely polished (to as much as 50 percent less than the original hull size) steamed rice which has had its starchy core converted into sugars through a painstaking process called koji making, done largely by hand in special, warm, steamy, wood paneled rooms.
For whatever reason, a saké-making facility is called kura in Japanese, and is usually referred to as a saké brewery. Seeing little in common with breweries, however, Frost made up his own translation for kura, calling it "sakery." Why? Because unlike beer which usually finishes at 3% to 6% alcohol, saké naturally finishes at around 14% to 17%⏤closer to the level of traditional wine (10%-15% alcohol), but obviously a little bit sturdier.
Which brings us to the third thing I learned from Frost: Saké tastes best in stemmed, tulip shaped wine glasses (optimal size, 9 to 12 ounces), which allows you to swirl, sip and enjoy those delicate qualities of honeydew, tropical flowers, minerals generated by its “multiple parallel” fermentations.
In other words, forget tradition. These complexities are totally lost when saké is served in those square boxes or squat cups you are usually given in Japanese restaurants and bars. Is there any stronger an argument that saké is indeed a “fine wine?” How about the fact that Reidel has already designed a wine glass specifically for saké called the Daiginjo Tasting Glass, bearing a close resemblance to Reidel's French Chablis glass.
Not coincidentally, nuances of minerality and terroir are just as key to appreciating authentic Chablis as they are in fine chilled sakés. In fact, soon after meeting Frost I was introduced to Haruo Matsuzaki, a professional saké judge from Japan, famed for his ability to identify, in blind tastings, as many as 1,635 different sakés on the basis of regional styles and terroir related distinctions. And yes, I did get to judge sakés in a formal setting once with Matsuzaki san (along with John Gauntner, an American born saké journalist living in Tokyo), and it was the mind blowing experience that I expected.
Now, to the fourth significant thing I learned from Frost: Highest quality saké is also the purest alcoholic beverage in the world. It contain no sulfites, it is gluten free, and better yet, it is virtually "hangover free" since hangovers are largely caused by impurities in alcoholic beverages that are removed during the milling process of saké production. There is an old saying, according to Frost, that “saké makes a man sound as intelligent to others as he does to himself.” I may not believe everything I'm told, but some things, I want to believe.
Frost also adds another Japanese saying, that "saké starts out as a friend but can end as an enemy." I know that one is true from watching many black and white Japanese samurai moves..
Which brings us to the fifth, most surprising, and perhaps most significant thing I learned from Frost about saké: The fact that in Japan saké is not considered the ideal beverage for rice or sushi, as popularly assumed.
To the Japanese, drinking saké with rice is almost like drinking wine with grapes. While the Japanese eat sushi like snack food, before or after a “meal” with tea or beer, they do enjoy saké with sashimi. Frost suggests planning saké meals around fuller bodied foods like pickled vegetables, pork, chicken, shellfish, and fish (grilled, steamed or as sashimi), and the heartier, more rustic types of dishes found in country style Japanese restaurants.
But what if you wish to start a meal with sushi? For that, Frost recommends beginning with a good beer⏤not my personal preference because of beer's filling quality, although I admit doing this a few times⏤and afterwards, once the appetite is whetted, moving on to vegetable, fish or meat courses with the saké.
SOME BASIC PRINCIPLES OF SAKÉ/FOOD MATCHING
Thus imbued by Frost’s wisdom and enthusiasm, we worked with him to devise multi-course saké-friendly menus for our restaurants (located from Hawa`i to New York) appealing to saké lovers and non-saké drinkers alike. The objective: to demonstrate sak’s easy affinity with contemporary style foods. One of our catch-all menus:
For dry ginjo style saké: “Town & Country” Hawaiian ‘ahi tuna poke (raw fish salad) & lomi lomi ("chopped") salmon tinged with truffle oil.
For lightly sweet ginjo (ultra-premium) saké: Chiso grilled salmon salad with crispy salmon skin and baby greens in a saké soy vinaigrette.
For very dry daiginjo (highest quality) saké: Lobster chawanmushi (egg custard) with caviar and truffled essences.
For medium sweet nigori genshu (“rough filtered,” or “uncut”) saké: Fresh tropical fruit haupia (coconut) puddings.
Our goal was to stimulate interest in saké as the “wine of the East” by putting it in the context of familiar Pacific Rim foods, for all their pan-Asian, Polynesian and European influences. The strategy was achieved through interplay with saké’s stony, fluid, mildly sweet/acidic subtleties by utilizing earthy ingredients (garlic, sweet onions, chopped seaweed, whiffs of truffle in the poke, nestled alongside the chopped, rock salt cured salmon), soft textures (the unsweetened, caviar and truffle laced custard of the chawanmushi, and the creaminess of the Hawaiian pudding), and suggestions of ocean/air/earth harmonies (creamy basil-like taste of whole leaf shiso and baby greens with crisped salmon skin, bound by a faintly acidic/salty vinaigrette).
Saké is versatile enough to be taken out of strictly Asian or Japanese culinary traditions, but it does require a little bit of mindfulness of the unique nature of saké, which is not like a beer, nor like traditional wines. Some basic principles accumulated as a result of our menu trials:
Since they are delicately scented and always served well chilled, all the nuanced, new style sakés should be thought of as you would dry to off-dry white wines. Therefore, like white wines, they go very well with white meats (fish, shellfish, pork, chicken, etc.), with sauces or condiments appropriate for white meats.
Since they are made from rice, not grapes, the chilled sakés have only about the third of the acidity of white wine. Therefore, the use of vinegars and vinaigrettes should be moderated so as not to make the saké taste flat or dull. However, you should not be afraid to use soft rice wine vinegars, or round, winy balsamic and Sherry vinegars, or vinaigrettes rounded out by palm sugar, seasonings, stocks, mirin, and fruit or herb/vegetable infusions to balance the mildly acidic qualities (relative to the whole or specific gravity, i.e., Saké Meter Value⏤more on this below) of typical styles of chilled saké.
Since the finest, most polished sakés (bottled as ginjo or daiginjo) are made purely from rice, water, yeasts and the koji enzymes, they contain no bitter tannins or phenolics like, say, red wines or oaky Chardonnays. Therefore, you cannot expect them to shine with fatty or chunky cuts of red meats other than in small portions.
Despite the subtlety of their flavor delineations, typical chilled sakés are fairly full in alcohol (15% to 17%), and so they have good body and presence on the palate (in other words, not wimpy wines). Therefore, thinly sliced, lower fat meats balanced by vegetables, seasonings, and varying textures and sauces are very appropriate.
Since fine saké is in primarily associated with Japanese traditions, it makes perfect sense to incorporate Japanese ingredients, sauces, and cooking techniques into fusion style cooking meant for saké. The reason for this is that much of Japanese cooking (the use of dashi, sea vegetables, root vegetables, miso, shiitake, wasabi, sesame, etc.) is quite earthy, making it very compatible with the distinctively earthy, minerally or stony qualities of natural style saké.
Since the taste of ultra-premium saké entails a very subtle, harmonious balance of taste elements (as opposed to the more obvious acids, tannins and fruit sugars of table wines), a good rule of thumb is to avoid extremes of flavor when cooking for it. Think of it as similar to everyday, steamed white rice. While plainer in flavor than, say, garlicky noodles, cheesy polenta or buttery potatoes, it is that same plainness that makes steamed white rice perfect when mingled with intensely flavorful components in Asian influenced dishes. The quiet, understated qualities of chilled saké harmonize with foods in very much the same way that plain white rice harmonizes with dishes.
Although many Japanese avoid eating plain rice or sushi with saké, this does not keep saké from being an easy match with starches or starch-like foods of all sort, including all the variations of pasta, beans, tofu, wild rice, Asian noodles (rice, bean thread, buckwheat, etc.), rice paper, potatoes, polenta, and even spätzle, crèpes, dumplings and couscous (including Israeli couscous). The appropriate method of cooking with these starches is to apply a restrained use of oils, butters, creams and reductions that echo the round (rather than sharp), subtle taste and silky, creamy textures of chilled saké, while maintaining a contrast and/or balance with each element in the dish.
Last but far from least, because of saké's significant natural amino acid content, you can identify foodstuffs that act as flavor “bridges” for saké by thinking of the originally Japanese concept of umami, the often overlooked “fifth taste”: The sensation perceived by the taste buds (on top of sweet, sour, salty and bitter sensations) as essentially a “deliciousness” resulting from interactions with foods high in amino acid content, whether occurring naturally in ingredients or activated through cooking processes. The sensation of umami is naturally found in, say, vine ripened tomatoes, well aged cheeses (such as Parmigiano, extra-aged Goudas, and blue cheeses), and especially fungus (chanterelles, porcini, shiitakes, the rare matsutake from Japan, and especially truffles). Seaweeds of all sorts are high in umami; and seasonings such as shichimi and Chinese five-spice help facilitate it. Complex, slowly evolved stocks based upon chicken, veal and shellfish, as well as the reductive aspects of braising, pot a feu, dashi, nages, and natural essences all achieve certain degrees of umami.
If anything, the important thing to remember is that since the highest quality sakés are perceived by the palate as subtle, harmonious, and ultimately delicious, judicious use of ingredients rich in umami “deliciousness” can lead to easy saké/food matches.
COOKING FOR THE BASIC TYPES OF CHILLED SAKÉS
Saké Meter Value (Sweetness/Dryness)
Since when cooking for sakés, level of dryness or sweetness is the biggest consideration, let’s begin with a brief explanation of what is called Saké Meter Value, often found indicated on the labels of commercial sake:
The level of sweetness or dryness in a given saké is called Nihonshu-do, or Saké Meter Value (i.e. SMV). Saké Meter Value is not actually a measurement of residual sugar, but rather a measurement of the specific gravity of saké, which normally ranges from -10 to +10.
Generally speaking, the lower the level of specific gravity (below 0), the sweeter the saké. 0 SMV is pretty much the middle ground for sakés, tasting somewhere between slightly sweet and fairly dry. Sweeter sakés generally measure below -5, and the driest sakés measure somewhere between +4 and +10 SMV.
That said, here are some guidelines to preparing or selecting foods for fine chilled saké:
Foods for Very Dry Saké (SMV: +4 or more)
Smoked or grilled white meats and seafoods (smoked salmon, wood oven roasted oysters, wood grilled chicken, pork, rabbit, etc.) that match the stony, flinty dryness of dry saké.
White fish with either flaky, mild flavors (mahimahi, snapper, ono, etc.); or slightly oily fish (cod, sea bass, monkfish, tuna, salmon, hamachi, etc.) to match the fluid, silken texture of dry sakés.
Fleshy, high umami shellfish (scallops, oysters, abalone, lobster, etc.).
Raw foods, from tataki and tartare to sashimi and oysters.
Fish in fragrant broths, steamed, cooked in hotpots, nages, green (ochazuke) or black teas, or finished with infused oils.
Steamed Japanese custards (chawanmushi).
Ankimo (monkfish liver) in mild ponzus.
Restrained use of creams, butters and beurre blancs, coconut milk, oils (sesame, olive, grapeseed, etc.), “dynamites” (mildly spiced Japanese style aioli), Parmigiano (in risotto), and avocado⏤all to match silky saké textures.
To find notes of similarity in daiginjo sakés’ stony, earthy qualities, make use of all varieties of sea vegetables, seasonings and minerally/saline seafoods (caviars, bonito flakes, eel, clam, sea urchin or uni, etc.).
Earthy vegetables such as mushrooms (fresh or dried), truffles (and truffle oil), root vegetables (daikon and other radishes, horseradish, gobo, fennel, burdock, lotus root, etc.), mustards, toasted sesame seeds, and Chinese greens (choy sum, bok choy, ong choy, etc.).
Fragrant, leafy green herbs such as parsley, mitsuba, mints, dill, sweet basil, shiso, chervil, tarragon and Mexican mint marigold.
Crisp "fruity" vegetables such as snow peas, cucumber, asparagus, bean sprouts, edamame, and fennel.
Foods for Medium Sweet Saké (SMV: between +4 and -5)
Rich, oily, even salty fish⏤such as sashimi grade tuna and hamachi, mackerel, salt cod (brandade), cuttlefish, herring, eel, anchovy and sardines⏤that easily balance the stony, whispery sweet qualities of the off-dry sakés.
“Sweet” varieties of shellfish (shrimp, crab, lobster, etc.), white fish, pork, and other white meats with mildly sweet glazes (yakitori, teriyaki, misoyaki, etc.).
Crisped fried foods (tempura, potstickers, spring rolls, lumpia, etc.).
Caviars of all sorts (sturgeon, salmon, flying fish, etc.)
Restrained use of sweet/hot seasonings (shichimi togarashi, Chinese five-spice, jerk, Cajun spices, etc.) or mildly sweet/sour/spicy barbecue sauces (Asian or American variations).
Mildly acidic broths, oils, vinaigrettes and aiolis made with rice vinegar, mirin, yuzu, ponzu, etc.
Wok charred Chinese greens and sweet peppers with oyster or fish sauces.
Mildly hot fruit/vegetable relishes (Asian or Mexican salsas), dipping sauces (such as Thai) and mustards.
Earthy, salty and/or sweet toned Japanese ingredients (ginger, kabayaki, unagi, gobo, daikon, green tea, soba, sesame, umeboshi, nori, furikake, etc.).
Earthy seasonings and marinades such as moles, or use of achiote, cumin, miso or sesame pastes, etc.
Fresh or dried seaweeds.
Fragrant types of rice (such as jasmine and basmati), and fragrant preparations of rice (arroz, paella, risotto, pilaf, etc.).
Strongly scented herbs and spices (such as star anise, kaffir, cilantro, Vietnamese coriander, Thai or licorice basils, saffron, cumin, paprika, allspice and achiote).
Pungent alliums (sweet onions, scallions, garlic, shallots, chives and leeks).
The entire range of taste sensations associated with Asian or Pacific Rim foods; including sweet components (tropical fruit infusions, palm sugared sauces, hoisin, chutneys, Chinese or Japanese bean pastes, etc.), sour sensations (use of vinegars, citrus juices, lemon grass, yogurt, tamarind pastes, green mango and green papaya), salty tastes (soy sauce, rock salt, fish sauces, caviars), spicy qualities (fresh, dried and crushed chilies, Asian chili pastes, rayu and hot sesame oils, curry pastes and powders, Chinese red rice vinegar), and even bitter tastes (peppercorns, spice sprouts, watercress, horseradishes, mustard, coriander and anise seeds, and mesclun greens such as arugula, mizuna, dandelion, mustard greens, cress, nasturtium).
Foods for Sweet Nigori (Cloudy/Rough Filtered) Style Saké (SMV: -6 or Less)
Fuller white meats, game birds, and some offal (chicken, pork, duck, squab, sweetbreads, tripe, tendon, etc.), especially with variations of sweet glazes.
Sweet/sour/spicy appetizers that incorporate the earthy flavors (such as Thai and Japanese dipping sauces) that saké loves.
Perceptively hot seasonings (from Thai and Chinese chili pastes to Cajun, Indian and Jamaican spices).
Coconut laced curries.
Sweet/spicy/salty soy based barbecued meats and ribs (sticky marinades, dry rubs, teriyaki and kalbi).
Satays with earthy, sweet, sour, salty and/or spicy marinades and dipping sauces.
Fruit infused natural reductions.
Ankimo (monkfish liver) and foie gras seared with plum sauce or other fruit reductions.
European style (i.e. barely sweet) desserts with fresh fruit (especially pineapple, mango, banana, papaya, strawberry, lychee, longan, mangosteen and durian), coconut pudding (Hawaiian haupia), bittersweet chocolate (black or white), tapioca and rice puddings, custards, flan, panna cotta, anglaise, azuki beans, and scented flavors (vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, lemon grass, cardamom, citrus rinds, pistachios or almonds)⏤the only rules of thumb being “nothing-too-sweet” (like syrupy coulis), and avoidance of predominantly acidic/citrusy sensations (since nigori style saké does not tend to be as sweet or acidic as traditional dessert wines, such as late harvest Rieslings).
Domo